- Have your saddle checked by a Society of Master Saddlers (SMS) Qualified Saddle Fitter every six months: horses change shape with weight, fitness and age.
- You should fit at least two adult fingers under the noseband on the front of the nose, whatever style it is. A noseband shouldn't be used to keep the mouth shut.
- The bit should sit level, high enough to make a small wrinkle at the corners of the lips. Start with the mildest bit, with advice from your coach and an SMS bit fitter.
- Check the bridle every time you put it on, especially on a horse that isn't yours: it may have been put back together wrongly after cleaning.
- If you buy second-hand, check the tree and the stitching, and have the saddle fitted to your horse by a qualified fitter.
Why fit matters
The British Horse Society says tack that fits correctly is crucial to a safe and comfortable ride for both horse and rider. A poorly fitting saddle can cause pain, pressure points or lameness, and it can unbalance the rider or cause them pain too. Research by Dr Sue Dyson, highlighted by World Horse Welfare, found that poor saddle fit was common among horses showing behaviours that may indicate pain when being tacked up and ridden.
Saddles
Get it checked professionally
Horses change shape all the time with their weight, fitness, muscle development, age, the work they do and the time of year, so the way a saddle fits can change through the year. The BHS recommends having your saddle checked by a Society of Master Saddlers (SMS) Qualified Saddle Fitter every six months. Its fitness advice adds that a horse's shape can change a lot after as little as four to six weeks of regular ridden training, so have the saddle checked before starting a fitness programme. Find a qualified fitter through the Society of Master Saddlers.
A saddle must fit the rider as well as the horse. Riders with long legs or long thighs often need a longer saddle so their knee doesn't go over the knee roll. A saddle that's the wrong size for the rider spreads their weight unevenly, creating pressure points on the horse's back.
Checks you can make yourself
Between the fitter's visits, look at how the saddle sits as you tack up. The BHS's handling lessons check the fit without a numnah, using the girth to hold the saddle on, and look for:
- Wither clearance: the saddle shouldn't press on the withers.
- Panels level across the back.
- No tipping forwards or backwards.
- Daylight through the gullet, the channel down the middle of the saddle.
The Pony Club's tack check for its rallies also looks at whether the saddle is too long for the horse, avoiding the loins, whether it suits the size of the rider, and whether it sits level and central rather than to one side. The BHS lessons also show how pads under the saddle can change the fit.
Never leave a saddle on a horse's back without holding it or doing up the girth, and handle it carefully: don't drop it.
Bridles
World Horse Welfare's bridle guidelines, developed with vet Dr Rachel Murray, have two aims: minimise pressure on the sensitive structures and nerves of the head, and maximise stability, so the bridle stays as still as possible. Every horse's head is a different size and shape, so no one style or make of bridle fits every horse. Some horses need a cob-size noseband but a full-size headpiece, for example. A "build your own" bridle with mix-and-match parts, or a bespoke one, can solve this.
Check the bridle every time you put it on, the BHS advises, especially on a horse that isn't yours, as it may have been taken apart for cleaning and put back together wrongly.
| Part | How it should fit |
|---|---|
| Headpiece | Sits comfortably over the poll, behind the bulbs of the ears. Slide your hand under the crown to check it isn't tight. |
| Browband | Not so short that it pulls the headpiece forward against the ears, and not so long that it gapes. The BHS suggests room for two fingers between its centre and the forehead. |
| Cheekpieces | Run parallel to the facial crest (the bony ridge on the side of the face), not against or across it. The buckles sit roughly level with the corner of the eye. If the cheekpieces are too long, the buckles end up near the browband and press on the jaw joint (the temporomandibular joint), which can cause discomfort and behaviour problems. |
| Noseband | At least two adult fingers, or the ISES gauge, under the noseband on the front of the nasal bone, whatever the style. |
| Throatlash | The Pony Club's tack check looks for a hand's width (four fingers). |
Shaped headpieces and browbands are popular, but the BHS warns the shaping can be in the wrong place for some horses and cause more pressure, so fit each one to the individual horse. Its advice is to ask an SMS Qualified Bridle Fitter to check your bridle.
Nosebands
A noseband shouldn't be used to keep the horse's mouth closed, the BHS says, and over-tight nosebands are commonly seen. A tight noseband pushes the gums against the teeth, which is painful. If a noseband sits too low it can press on the soft part of the nostrils, and since horses can only breathe through their nose, that restricts breathing.
| Type | How it works and fits |
|---|---|
| Cavesson | A single wide strap around the middle of the nose. It has little action and is used mainly for looks. Fit it about two fingers' width below the projecting cheekbone, under the cheekpieces, fastening under the jaw. |
| Drop | Sits across the bony part of the nose. The lower straps go in front of the bit and fasten in the chin groove. Fit it high enough not to interfere with breathing. Redesigned versions with curved shaping or two rings are more humane, the BHS says. |
| Flash | A cavesson, fitted slightly higher than normal, with a thinner strap that fastens in front of the bit. The Pony Club says the flash strap must never be tight. |
| Grackle | The top straps fasten under the cheekbones and the lower strap fastens in the chin groove, in front of the bit. The crossover sits in the centre of the nose. Any rings shouldn't touch the cheekbones. |
Bits
The BHS describes the bit as one part of your communication with the horse, along with your seat, legs and reins. Every bit works by putting pressure on parts of the mouth and head: inside the mouth, the tongue, the bars (the sensitive gap between the front and back teeth) and the roof of the mouth, and outside it, the corners of the lips, the chin groove, the side of the face, the nose and the poll.
- Fit: the bit should sit level, high enough to make a small wrinkle at the corners of the lips. The Pony Club also checks that it's the correct width for the mouth.
- Mouthpiece: a straight mouthpiece puts most pressure on the tongue. A curved or jointed one puts less on the tongue and more on the bars. A thicker mouthpiece is considered milder than a thin one, because it spreads the pressure.
- Start mild: always start with the mildest bit, and get advice from an SMS qualified bit fitter and your coach.
- Soft hands: even the mildest bit can hurt if the hands on the reins are rough, so aim for a soft, elastic contact.
- Teeth: have your horse's teeth checked at least once a year, so sharp points don't injure the inside of the mouth. See Teeth.
Martingales, breastplates and boots
Speak to your coach before buying extra tack, to make sure you really need it.
- Running martingale: stops the horse lifting its head above the point of control. You should fit four fingers between the neck strap and the top of the neck, and the straps with rings should reach from the centre of the chest to just under the throat. Always use rein stops, so the rings can't slide up and catch on the bit.
- Breastplate: stops the saddle sliding back, for example when galloping and jumping cross-country. Fit four fingers between the top of the neck and the neck strap, and a fist between the centre of the breastplate and the chest.
- Brushing boots: protect the legs from injury when one leg knocks against another. Fit them with the widest part over the fetlock, and check the straps aren't too tight.
- Overreach boots: protect against overreaching. They pull on or fasten with Velcro.
Safety checks every time you tack up
From the BHS and the Pony Club's tack check:
- Bridle: billets on the inside, buckles on the outside, and all the keepers in place.
- Reins: no rips or tears, sound stitching, and not so long that a foot could get caught in the loop.
- Girth straps: in good repair, with no stretched holes. The girth should be tight enough, but not too tight.
- Stirrup leathers: sound stitching, especially by the buckle, and sound leather where the iron hangs.
- Stirrup bars: down in the horizontal position, not flipped up.
- Stirrup irons: the correct size, and not bent out of shape.
- Saddle cloth: attached to the saddle and lifted up into the gullet, so it doesn't press on the withers.
If you compete, check your sport's rules on tack too. They differ between disciplines.
Buying second-hand
The SMS and the BHS say a well-cared-for, used saddle or bridle can be a good buy, but buyer beware. Start with your local saddlery shop or SMS Qualified Saddle Fitter, as they often stock second-hand saddles that have been safety-checked. If you buy privately, get a qualified saddler to check it first if you can, and see it before you buy:
- First impressions: well-kept leather feels firm but supple. Creases or ripples in the seat could mean a weakened or broken tree, the frame the saddle is built on.
- Wear and damage: look for cracked leather on the girth straps and fraying on the webs they're attached to. Scuffs on the pommel and cantle may mean the saddle has been dropped or damaged in a fall.
- The tree: hold the saddle lengthways with the pommel against your thigh, grip the cantle and gently pull it towards you. A sound tree flexes a little; a lot of give suggests it's broken. Don't use a saddle with a damaged tree.
- Rot: check for loose or rotting stitching on the girth straps and D-rings.
The same goes for bridles, leathers and girths. If the holes in straps, billets or hooks are stretched, don't buy it. Adverts that call leather "soft as butter" usually mean poor-quality or over-oiled leather. Whatever you buy, have the saddle fitted to your horse by an SMS Qualified Saddle Fitter: a saddle that has been used on another horse will have settled into that horse's shape.
Caring for tack
The BHS says regular cleaning and proper storage are essential to keep tack in good condition and make it last, whether it's leather or synthetic. World Horse Welfare's bridle care guide also covers the signs of wear and tear to look for.
Signs your tack may be hurting
Watch your horse when you tack up and ride. The BHS lists signs including:
- ears back, trying to bite or kick, teeth grinding or head tossing when the saddle or bridle goes on
- fidgeting, tail swishing or walking off as you mount
- resisting the bridle, evading the contact, head tossing, or repeatedly opening the mouth when ridden.
These can also point to other pain, so if they persist after you've had the tack checked, call your vet. See Behaviour problems.
Sources
- Make sure your tack is fitted correctly — The British Horse Society (accessed 10 October 2026)
- Saddle fit — The British Horse Society (accessed 10 October 2026)
- Bridle fit — The British Horse Society (accessed 10 October 2026)
- Tack affordability — The British Horse Society (accessed 10 October 2026)
- Session plans: Handling your horse (Silver) — The British Horse Society (accessed 10 October 2026)
- Horse fitness — The British Horse Society (accessed 10 October 2026)
- Lameness signs, assessment and diagnosis — The British Horse Society (accessed 10 October 2026)
- Rider size — The British Horse Society (accessed 10 October 2026)
- Bridles: how to choose and fit them correctly — World Horse Welfare (accessed 10 October 2026)
- Tacking up and ridden behaviours — World Horse Welfare (accessed 10 October 2026)
- Tack, dress and equipment: members' and supporters' guide — The Pony Club (accessed 10 October 2026)