If your horse is overweight, ask whether it really needs a rug, or a lighter one. Digesting fibre keeps horses warm, and using energy to keep warm helps weight loss.
Horse care tips
Short, practical advice for every part of the year. Tips for October come first.
Take your horse's rug off every day to check for rubs or sore spots, then refit it. Check the forecast daily to decide whether a rug is needed at all.
Egg counts don't reliably detect tapeworm. Use a saliva or blood test instead, ideally in spring and autumn.
Encysted small redworm larvae hide in the gut wall over winter and don't show up in egg counts. Ask your vet or SQP about a blood test or a winter dewormer.
In wet, mild weather, redworm larvae can travel up to three metres from a dropping in about five days. Keep up regular poo-picking when it's damp.
Sticky yellow bot fly eggs on your horse's legs? Scrape them off with a bot knife to help break the bot fly's life cycle.
Hooves that swing between wet fields and dry stables are more prone to abscesses. Brushing off dried mud rather than hosing it can help.
In wet months, check your horse's lower legs daily for scabs, heat or swelling. Treating mud fever as soon as it starts gives the best chance of success.
'Mud fever' covers several skin conditions. If you're unsure, ask your vet to confirm what it is before you start treating it.
When washing mud fever, use warm water and a very dilute antiseptic — never cold water, and never neat antiseptic on the skin — then dry the leg thoroughly.
Barrier creams can help prevent mud fever before turnout — but only apply them to clean, dry skin, never over existing sores.
Before winter, put hardstanding around gateways, shelters and water troughs. It reduces poaching, and the bacteria behind mud fever live in wet soil.
Thick feathers make it hard to get legs properly dry. For a horse with mud fever, clipping the legs may be needed to clear it up.
A healthy adult horse is comfortable between about 5°C and 25°C. Below 5°C it warms itself by eating more forage, seeking shelter and moving.
To judge if your horse is cold, feel its neck, withers and body — not its legs, ears or face, which naturally run cooler.
Rug for your horse, not for how cold you feel. Over-rugging can cause sweating, discomfort, weight gain and skin problems.
Keep a spare rug so you can swap it if one gets soaked through.
Don't keep a horse rugged 24/7. On dry or milder days, let it have fresh air and sun on its back.
A clipped horse has lost part of its natural insulation. It may need a rug when temperatures drop below about 5°C to stay comfortable and hold its weight.
For an overweight horse, a small neck-and-belly clip without a rug can — done carefully — help it burn more energy over winter.
If your horse scores below 2 out of 5 for fat, talk to your vet about its health, and use a rug when temperatures drop.
Make sure horses living out can reach shelter, natural or man-made. Donkeys need a fully waterproof shelter.
Getting a horse used to clippers? Go in small steps — noise at a distance, then touch, then vibration — rewarding calm at each stage, over several short sessions.
A nervous horse's first clip can be done in stages over several days. Patchy for a while is better than a frightening experience.
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